Pro-log

Why Montreal in December?

I suppose one would ask why people from Georgia would vacation in Montreal in December?

  1. It was Dinah's choice.
  2. So I could eat at Au Pied de Cochon.
  3. Dinah wanted a real vacation after the misery of studying for her boards.
  4. Dinah's birthday is in the first week of December.
  5. I had a great deal on Holiday Inn Priority Club Points.
  6. It's like going to Europe but with a much shorter flight.
  7. Finally, we loved Quebec City and wanted to try the "other" city in Quebec.

Day 1

Friday, 30 November 2007

We're not off to Montréal just yet. We have a morning flight tomorrow so we are staying in Atlanta near the airport so that we don't have to drive at 3:00 in the morning.

We are not off to a good start. Dinah called at 5:00pm saying the daycare had called to say Rose had a fever of 102°F. Dinah was picking her up so Michelle could have a look before we left. So much for leaving close to 5:30pm. They decided to get Rose an antibiotic to be on the safe side. So after hitting the pharmacy Dinah and Rose got home about 6:45pm. Rose ran around the house like normal, you'd never know she was sick.

Dinah brought the mail in. I had been checking everyday for a package or letter from Canada. I bought tickets to the December 4th Red Wings-Canadiens game on eBay for $330 and paid an extra $20 for express shipping. That was still considerably less that at the ticket office. I had a tracking number so I knew the guy had mailed them and that they entered the US on the 24th. Six days later and no hockey tickets. That was an expensive waste. And I have no recourse. Words cannot describe how pissed I was.

We got to our hotel around 10:00pm. The drive was thankfully uneventful. If you have the need you can't do much better than staying at the Holiday Inn Airport-South, one of the best I have stayed at. Do NOT stay at the Holiday Inn Airport-North. Huge difference. Rose was a little wound up and had trouble going to sleep but she should be tired tomorrow and sleep well on the plane.

Day 2

Saturday, 01 December 2007

Today we fly to Montréal. We got off to a horrible start. The plan was to catch the shuttle from the hotel to the airport at 7:30am. We missed it. I won't go into the how and why. So we caught the 8:00am shuttle and I am beside myself. I thought I was pissed yesterday. This is a whole new orbit of pissed off.

Originally we were supposed to fly Atlanta to Detroit, Detroit to Montréal. For whatever reason Northwest changed our flights twice to now fly Atlanta to Minneapolis, Minneapolis to Detroit, Detroit to Montréal. Except now the first flight was a code share on Delta. To save some time I thought I would call NW and see if we should check in with Delta or NW. I was told Delta.

So we get to the airport, we have a 9:44am flight and it is now 8:15am and I am in a panic. I ask a Delta representative where to check in because I don't know if we have to check in International or not. She says we can use a kiosk. I don't think so but I dutifully follow. She tries to check us in through the kiosk but it won't work. She says that in order to check our bags all the way to Montréal we need to go to the full service counter. The line is long enough to double back. This is becoming a theme for the day, me listening to people who I know damn well are full of it.

Finally we get to the counter representative who has a voice so soft I can barely hear her. I tell her we are trying to go to Montréal and check our bags all the way, the kiosk won't work and we were sent here. She asks if I have a ticket for Rose and I say no. Well she needs one for international travel. I'll have to buy one. DAMN! I hand her my itinerary and all three passports. Now she starts talking about how we are on the wrong flight, missed our flight, why did I change our flight. She looks at me like I'm an idiot. I know she's an idiot but I look like I'm about to cry, because I am.

Now, it's after 9:00am, our flight is in 45 minutes, we are still at the ticket counter and I'm worried about how long security is. We're never going to make it. Kimberly, our lovely Delta agent is on the phone with Northwest and now she's mad at me and at Northwest because this is their problem not hers. So much for that Sky Team Alliance. Finally she says that we need to go over to Northwest and talk to Robin. If you don't know, Delta is in the South Terminal and Northwest is in the North terminal. It's not forever away, a long walk, but it isn't just the next counter over.

So we trudge on over to Northwest. I find a rep and ask who is Robin. I get a blank stare. She walks with us to the ticket counter which luckily doesn't have any customers. I keep asking for Robin and finally one of the agents behind the counter speaks up. There are three or four agents behind the counter. Compared to the mute agent in front and all of the Delta staff, these four are super friendly. One plays with Rose while Robin gets us taken care of. She gets us on the Detroit flight, our original itinerary for 10:20am. Thank God, we can make that flight. And no, we did not have to buy a ticket for Rose. Just as I thought, Delta was full of it.

After such a rough start, everything was smooth after that. As a treat to Dinah I had bought first class tickets for the whole trip. I think she enjoyed her free Bailey's on the rocks. Rose is an easy flier. She cried for about 20 minutes on the way to Detroit but she was 20 minutes past due on her nap. She loves looking out the window and her fear of takeoff was apparently a one time deal in Columbus. She also doesn't mind the elevators or train in the airport anymore.

Before Rose referred to planes as ta taas, accent on the second syllable. Today they were beese with a long 's' sound not a 'z' sound, like geese. Singular seems to be "bee." She also has a cute sign that she has made up on her own. Touching her two fingers almost like one does tsk tsk tsk. Who knows why but she is consistent and cute.

Customs was a breeze. We had to stand in the cold for quite a while waiting for a cab though. With the stroller and two bags we needed a mini-van which were in short supply. We almost got one but some rude guy with a briefcase wouldn't switch with our taxi in front of him. It was about another 20 minutes before another mini-van came around.

The Intercontinental in Montréal is very nice. There was a sale on Priority Club points, 5000 per night, so it was too good of an offer to pass up. Much of the opulence is in the name though. I think the Holiday Inn in Brunswick may actually be nicer.

I asked the concierge where we could get some poutine nearby. She recommended a place called Briskets. She said they also had smoked meat. Even better! We probably pushed too hard. It was only a three block walk but it was 7°F with a -1°F wind chill. Rose was bawling by the time we got there. I ordered a petite poutine Québécoise with a smoked meat platter and Dinah just got a grande poutine Québécoise. Québécoise means it comes with cheese curds. They had maybe 20 variations of poutine. For example, poutine Jardinière, which is a favorite of mine, poutine with peas and chicken. I first had poutine on a business trip to Quebec before we got married and Dinah and I had both kinds at Chez Ashton in Quebec on our honeymoon and we have been in love with it ever since. Rose seemed to prefer regular fries to the poutine but she really liked the cheese curds.

The smoked meat was outstanding. Again I first had it on that business trip to Quebec and love it. I'm not sure what meat it is but I think it is beef. I've seen some places list lamb. I'm not sure how it differs from pastrami but I don't eat pastrami. If you order, order medium fat. My platter was probably about a pound of meat. I think you are supposed to make your own sandwich with the rye bread provided. I made one with mustard but ate the rest with just a fork. Rose liked the rye bread dipped in the poutine gravy.

On top of that we had regular Canadian Cokes. They still use sugar here instead of high fructose corn syrup. It is so much better. Like I remember as a kid. It's all I'm drinking here. A negative consequence is that after just a few sips, Rose has developed quite a taste for it and is quite demanding if she sees you are drinking it. We'll break her of that when we get back home. The meal was heaven. This was why I dieted so hard since October (I've lost maybe 20 pounds and an inch).

We came back to the hotel fat and happy but chilly. Rose had a bath and fell asleep in 2 minutes.







Day 3

Sunday, 02 December 2007

We're not sure of the occasion but we could watch a big fireworks show from our hotel window last night. It was a pretty good display and Rose enjoyed it. I got her to say “oooooh” and “wow” after some of the bursts.

Then I passed out watching the Colts game while Dinah was in the shower.

We're going broke on the mini-bar. Fine hotels like this do not have vending machines. I am so thirsty and love the Coke and Perrier. Four bucks a can though.

For breakfast we decide to try the hotel restaurant. The restaurant is very nice. They have a buffet similar to what I get in Germany, not as large though. Of course in Germany it is part of the room price, here it is $25 each. This trip to Canada is becoming quite expensive. When we went to Quebec four years ago, our 75 cents bought us one Canadian dollar. Now one US dollar buys us 90 cents Canadian.

But the buffet is good. I have a smoked salmon and chive omelet made to order and a small plate of cold cuts and lox. The juice is good and so is the bacon and sausage. The bacon they call “ham” and the ham they call “bacon.” Rose doesn't each much but loves the sausage as usual.

Today we are taking a Gray Line bus tour for 2.5-3 hours. I figured it was the best way to see a lot of Montreal quickly and comfortably so we can plan the rest of the week. Today it is 10°F out so it is looking like a smart move.

The tour was excellent. Our tour guide's name was Angelo and he was very informative, very funny. I highly recommend the tour. Rose was perfect the whole time, everyone on the bus was impressed. At one stop Rose got out and stomped in the packed snow and chased some pigeons. I must have taken 150 pictures today.

After our tour we went in search of lunch. I asked the concierge and he sent us across the street to a pasta bar called La Popessa. It was not as easy getting there as he described and it was bitter cold out. We learned on the way back we could have walked underground. Not earning a tip that way. Neat restaurant along the lines of a Moe's or Subway. They have something like 30 different sauces for your to chose from and maybe 12 different pastas. You pick your sauce and pasta and they make it right in front of you, put it on your plate on your tray and you pay at the end of the line. About $8 per person and it tasted excellent. I had a ham, mushroom in tomato creme sauce over meat ravioli. Rose ate half of my ravioli though.

On our way back we stopped in a convenience store and bought a twelve pack of Coke and two large bottles of water. I think I have already gone through four Cokes.

After lunch we napped for several hours. We got up and consulted with the concierge regarding dinner. Katherine was the same concierge as the one that steered us to Briskets and is excellent. I had planned on eating at a restaurant named Magnan but it is very far away it seems. Katherine suggested a French/Spanish restaurant but I wasn't so sure. Then she suggested a place named Restaurant du Vieux Port. It looked better. She suggested one more restaurant that looked too upscale. We compared the Vieux Port to the hotel restaurant and went with Vieux Port.

Fortunately Rose just then woke up and so we dressed a little warmer and caught a taxi to the restaurant. Very, very nice. Old world charm with a real fireplace which we sat next to. Dinah and I both ordered the Table d'Hôte. I got the grilled portobello mushroom with fresh goat cheese as my salad. Dinah got the traditional Caesar salad but with pancetta instead of anchovy. Next, I had an eight ounce fillet in demi-glace and a side of mashed potatoes and green beans. Dinah had the rack of lamb and the same sides. We ordered mashed potatoes and green beans for Rose but she fussed more than she ate. Don't know why. For desert we both had an excellent and large crème brûlée with fresh berries. Strangely Rose wanted none. Her loss. If you go to the Vieux Port, ask for Angelo. He's been there 10 years. It was a perfect dinner and perfect evening.

On our way out, Angelo let Rose pet a lobster. She liked it.

We got back to the hotel and profusely thanked Katherine. She is off the rest of the week so I tipped her $5. Rose was thrilled to have a bath, the highlight of her day. Tonight we are supposed to get up to 30 centimeters of snow! So tomorrow we may stay inside and try to work the Underground. Now for another tasty Coke.

I got an email confirmation notice that my hockey tickets had been delivered yesterday.

View from our hotel room:







Ready to go on our bus tour:




Marie-Reine-du-Monde Cathedral, 1/3 scale replica of St. Peter's in Rome:
Mural in China Town:

Fresco in China Town:
Notre Dame Basilica:


Place d'Armes Hotel:
Cool clock tower across from basilica:



Entrance to China Town. Holiday Inn with pagodas on top:



Place d'Armes Square:


Former stadium of the Montreal Expos, Expodome:
Montreal Bio Dome, former Velodrome from 1976 Olympics:
Shaped like a cyclist's helmet:
St. Joseph's Oratory:


View of Montreal from Mount Royal:



Day 4

Monday, 03 December 2007

We all slept in this morning, 7:45am to 8:15am depending on who you were. We awoke to heavy snow. I had found a nearby restaurant for breakfast but we did not come equipped for trudging through the snow. So we settled for the expensive hotel breakfast again. I can't risk pushing Dinah and Rose an hour or more without finding breakfast. They get too cranky and it isn't worth it. Weekdays are a little disappointing in the hotel restaurant. There was no omelet station ad no capers for my lox. But I am really starting to like Brie cheese on bread, something I started in Germany.

We decided that with the weather we would stay inside and try our way through the Underground City. We can access it just outside, without going outside, of the hotel. Here we found a food court that may be our breakfast tomorrow. We have a map and hope to make it to Place Ville Marie.

The Underground is great. No jackets, very clean, well lit. Nicer than any tunnel network I've seen in the US. The hard part was there are no elevators and seemingly escalators that only go up. It was brutal carrying the stroller up and down stairs. Dinah lost it twice and my good humor never recovered. If it weren't for that, it is a great way to get around. Rose did really enjoy riding up and down the escalators in her stroller. She would hold on to the sides of her stroller with her head pushed back looking like a shuttle astronaut during take off, all smiles. Nothing fazes her. We did a little window shopping and ate at the food courts at the Gare Centrale (train station). Dinah had the best Pad Thai she has had in a long time. Rose felt it was too spicy. I had another smoked meat sandwich but it was not nearly as good as Briskets. The Pepsi was phenomenal though. What a difference sugar makes.


We decided not to push further and head back. I think we were all exhausted. Rose was and refused to nap which is typical when so much is going around her. I stopped one place and bought a very bad cup of coffee for a buck. Threw it away. I followed that up with a can of Perrier. I think Perrier is best out of a can for some reason and of all drinks, it has become my favorite to the point where I don't sip it anymore.

We got back to the hotel at about 2:30pm, it felt like 8:00pm. Everyone went down for a nap. With the snow I don't think we will venture out. It is still coming down hard and blowing. There is at least half a foot. I wish I brought boots but that would have been too much to pack. I did buy a scarf though while we were out and a black hat to wear instead of my hunter orange ski hat. The food courts below close with the business day so I bet we eat in the hotel tonight.

***

For dinner we did eat in the hotel. Rather than the expensive restaurant Les Continents, we went to the slightly less expensive Chez Plume. This is the hotel's sports bar. You have to be careful here because many places that have a bar will not allow children at all, but they would allow Rose here. An interesting observation was that nearly all of the patrons came from outside and were not hotel guests. Service was a little slow because all of the food has to come from the main kitchen at Les Continents.

We had an appetizer of marinated olives. They were fantastic and nice to have something radically different than what you would eat in a sports bar back home. Rose had a few but seemed to gag on each one. Dinah and I each had the fish and chips. It was better than anything I've had in the US but not as good as what we had in Charlottetown. It was not greasy, rather light and more similar to a breading than a batter thought it was neither. The fries were standard McDonald-clone style. Dinah noted the ketchup to be more sweet and less salty. Probably made with real sugar and not HFCS. We also enjoyed several local beers from McAuslan Brewery, I believe the St. Ambroise Pale Ale and the Griffon Rousse. Dinah had the Rickard's Red. I did finish with a Molson Dry. All were tasty. Rose had some mashed potatoes specially prepared by the chef who recently had a child and thus a soft spot to prepare something not on the menu. We ended with crème brûlée again. This one was not as tasty as the one at Vieux Port. Plain rather than vanilla, Dinah said. But how can you say no to crème brûlée? Once again Rose wanted none though she did have one bite.

Before we left, Rose threw her toy elephant on the floor. We looked all around, under the tables and could not find it. I said we should put her down and see if she could find it. Sure enough, I put Rose down and she went straight to it.

I've been able to figure out two of the songs that Rose sings. One she sings a lot has bits and pieces that sound like Twinkle Twinkle Little Star. She sings it over and over clapping her hands with “bees” and “baas” for syllables. I started singing Twinkle Twinkle to her and she looked at me stunned that I knew it. Now she claps a little when we sing it and says “more” at the end. The other song she makes some hand motions with. I figured it had to be Itsy Bitsy Spider. It was. She makes some really cute hand motions when you sing it. There's a third song that I have not figured out yet.

Snow!:




Small shopping mall in lower level of building connected to ours:
Beautiful reflection pool at one end:

There was a neat display of historical Santa figures. This was my favorite:

Entering the Underground underneath the shopping center:
What we were avoiding by going underground:
Rose going up an escalator: